Travel
Island Life
page 01
Islands In The Sun
CHRIS PRITCHARD HEADS OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN THE PHILIPPINES
AND WONDERS WHY TOURISTS ARE SO THIN ON THE GROUND.
Photography BY Suree Pritchard & George Tapan
The Philippines remains a mystery
to me. I can’t understand why
more people don’t go there. I’ve
visited many times: its cities and resorts are
modern, it’s English-speaking and service
standards are arguably Asia’s highest. What’s
more, prices remain attractively low. So, why
doesn’t it make more waves as a holiday
destination?
Tourists sometimes seem unexpectedly
thin on the ground. Crowds head instead to
Phuket or Bali. Surprisingly, the Philippines
remains a bit player on the Asian tourism
stage. Tourism secretary Joseph Durano
recently acknowledged this, revealing a
target of five million visitors a year by 2010
is unlikely to be met.
Nonetheless, an awful lot of people do go
to the Philippines. They discover an ability
to escape the tourist throngs of busier
destinations.
While South Korea is the country’s
number one source of tourists, many go
from Singapore (including many expatriates)
– with direct flights to Manila, Cebu and
Davao, the country’s three key cities.
Boracay, Cebu and Davao are among the
country’s best-known tourist destinations.
Of Davao’s 1.5 million people, 95 per
cent are Christian (mostly Catholic). It is
reputedly the Philippines’ cleanest city. Streets
are swept regularly. Footpaths are dotted with
garbage bins. Smoking is outlawed except
in designated areas. Taxis are modern and
metered, and rip-offs are rare. Crime levels are
low. Mayors tend to be super-powerful in the
Philippines and Davao’s Harley-Davidsonriding
Rodrigo Duterte is no exception. He
runs a tough-guy administration renowned
for keeping streets safe. City officials complain
that unrest in some other parts of the large
island of Mindanao, where government forces
are ranged against Muslim separatist rebels,
has an adverse effect on peaceful Davao.
Some tourists, they say, take the view that if
it’s Mindanao they won’t go.
That’s a pity. To my mind, Davao is one of
Asia’s most fascinating – and safest – holiday
destinations.
A modern city, it boasts malls and markets
(with cheap-as-chips shopping), tropical
parkland, diverse cultural attractions, good
golf courses, white-sand beaches, whitewater
rafting, hiking, memorable restaurants
and superb resorts.
For instance, one morning I decided to
check out the Pearl Farm Beach Resort.
Tourists are snorkelling in clear water, a
group waves as it sets out for a wreck-diving
session, lazier souls sprawl in hammocks on
over-water balconies. Dining is five-star and
accommodation is as good as at top-drawer
Thai or Maldivian resorts.
Food in this port city is predictably
seafood-oriented. Tuna-fishing is one of
Davao’s main industries. Local delicacies
include panga.(grilled tuna jaw) and kinilaw
(marinated raw tuna). Among a plethora of
fine seafood restaurants, no-frills Luz Kinilaw
excels and is something of a local landmark.
However, the main attraction bringing
tourists to Davao is the Philippine Eagle
Centre, an hour’s drive from the city. Its
aim is to save endangered Philippine eagles,
of which only 500 pairs are believed to
survive in the wild. Logging and farming
are destroying their habitat.
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